The Family Behind Victor’s Cafe, a Theater District Mainstay

Monica Zaldivar, the third-generation owner of Victor’s Cafe dishes on the restaurant’s storied history and continued success which has attracted locals, tourists and celebrities to the Cuban restaurant that has been a Theater District mainstay for decades.

| 21 Oct 2024 | 12:53

Monica Zaldivar is full of gratitude for the legacy her grandparents left behind and is committed to honoring them at their restaurant, Victor’s Cafe, through her work with its staff and customers.

“I love being hospitable and when my employees feel like they’ve learned something and they’re grateful because I try to instill gratitude,” she said, when asked about her favorite part of running the over 60-year-old Cuban restaurant.

“I feel like it’s necessary to keep this alive because there is so much history that’s happened here.”

In 1963, Zaldivar’s grandparents, Victor Del Corral and Eloina Ruiz de Ugarrio, originally opened Victor’s on the Upper West Side, on W. 71st Street and Columbus Avenue, where John Lennon and Yoko Ono were customers.

The Cuban immigrants and their daughter, Sonia, Zaldivar’s mother, lived across the street in an apartment, whichhe 40-something current restaurant owner still calls home.

In 1980, they moved the restaurant to its current location, W. 52nd between Broadway and 8th Ave. and Zaldivar, a graduate of Fordham University who was practicing law in Florida before moving back in 2011, is the first one to arrive at the 225-seat eatery each morning.

Tell us about how your grandfather got started.

My grandfather, with a 3rd grade education, came to New York City in 1957. He was a busboy, did all that, before he brought my mom and grandma here. He only had one child, my mom. And he just worked a bunch of odd jobs until he made a little bit of money to open the 71st Street location.

What do you remember about growing up in the restaurant business?

I remember I was afraid to go into the kitchen because there was an employee there who always told me he was going to put me in the dishwasher. [Laughs]

Who helps you at the restaurant?

My mom still, she’s in Florida, so remotely.

What are the best selling dishes on your menu?

The ropa vieja for sure, and the vaca frita. The meat is the same, it’s just prepared differently. I love the vaca frita more.

What is your favorite food item and cocktail on the menu?

The salmon ceviche is my favorite; that’s the one I recommend to everybody. And the champagne sangria. It will knock you out. I won’t drink it anymore. [Laughs]

Who are some of your celebrity customers?

Pitbull comes here a lot. He is the most humble person; he loves sitting in the bar area. There’s a soup that he loves that my chef makes for him. He has all of his band here, and he treats them all. Jennifer Lopez comes here a lot. She loves our chicken. Gloria Estefan, Billy Murray, Mike Tyson, Roberto Durán. Barbara Walters, she was one of my favorites. Bill Cosby used to come all the time and he would pretend he was a host and this was at the height of “The Cosby Show.” So imagine people coming in and him asking, “Do you have a reservation?”

How many employees do you have?

Pre-COVID, 100, now I’m at 40.

Where did you find your chef?

He started as the dishwasher and he is an amazing human being. His stepdaughter works here too. I tell my employees, “I have a vision here and it’s to emulate my grandparents who taught me good manners and good values and I’m going to instill it in you guys.”

What’s a typical day like for you?

I wake up at 5 o’clock every morning. I go to Pilates everyday. I get here around 9 or 10 because I like to set the mood. I’m here everyday, but not at night.

Do you read customers’ reviews?

I do. A lot, too much, maybe. I’m all about constructive criticism. Some of the reviewers need therapy. [Laughs]

To learn more, visit www.victorscafe.com