A French Bistro is Latest Addition to Chelsea Hotel, Up and Running after Nov. 2 Blaze

The Chelsea Hotel, which was reopened to much fanfare last year, only had to shut down its kitchen for a day after a two alarm fire on Nov. 2.

It is a welcome sight on that stretch of W. 23rd, which certainly could use a boost. The hotel had become something of a battleground, after it closed in 2011 and was not reopened by the Chelsea’s new owners, Ira Drukier, Richard Born and Sean MacPherson until 2022 following some lengthy legal battles, and ultimately a $30 million renovation to the storied Victorian Gothic hotel that first opened its doors in 1884 and over the years attracted the likes of Mark Twain, Andy Warhol, Bob Dylan and Dylan Thomas in its more bohemian past.

The new owners are known more for trendy boutique hotels like the Ludlow, the Maritime and the Bowery.

The Chelsea Hotel is once again a beacon in an area that has not yet come all the way back in the post pandemic era. Swing a hard right off of Eighth Avenue west onto Twenty-third Street, and once your eyes flit past Lions and Tigers and Squares Detroit Pizza (definitely get a square before proceeding) you’ll land upon an unfortunately desolate stretch of the Chelsea thoroughfare. Cinepolis, now closed for nearly a year, seems to attract all the wind-swept refuse of the block and is riddled with graffiti, with no imminent hope of reoccupation. East of Eighth has been tragically vacant for years: even a 7-11 couldn’t survive, and now a couple of small local banks sandwich a nearly always-closed H&R Block location.

But set your sights a little further down the block and, like a Saharan oasis, renovated Chelsea Hotel has spiffed up its exterior to match its revamped guts. A resplendent display of lush greenery and glittering marquis lighting beckon, framing the hotel’s latest addition to its dining portfolio: Café Chelsea.

El Quijote was the first eatery to reveal itself, and as controversial as reviving an old favorite always is, it didn’t take long to settle into stride. The scope was then broadened to focus on creating the next two dining destinations that had been on the backburner: a French cafe and swanky cocktail bar. Now, the hotel’s renovation is nothing short of miraculous: what was once a murky lobby is now polished to a glow. Bellboys in waistcoats graciously open the doors for guests, and even bohemian artwork that was preserved seems somehow finer, perhaps improved by the light of glittering chandeliers.

Cafe Chelsea mirrors that vibe, retaining the nostalgic air of a classic French bistro but glimmering with a modern panache. Even a two-alarm fire that happened early on November 2nd could not keep them down: closed just one night for service, they were back up and running the very next day, albeit with a limited menu. But even then they were serving a full house.

Sunday Hospitality is the group behind all the eateries in the hotel, room service included. In keeping with typical hotel food service, the restaurant is open seven days a week, breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. The posh Lobby Bar, adjacent to the Cafe, only accepts reservations from hotel guests, but welcomes the public as walk-ins. It’s definitely worth a pre-dinner cocktail in the main lounge or one of its two skylit solariums, or even as a destination in and of itself. And noteworthy tipples they are, ordered from a menu divided into House cocktails and Tributes (the hotel will never abandon its roots), as well as an array of spirited although spirit-free options for any teetotalers that may arrive. The Chelsea Morning is a sweet and fruity peach-centric alternative to a mimosa if you’re enjoying it in its eponymous time frame. Viva Superstar might make you feel like one, both upon its presentation and after its consumption, with its double-whammy of gin and cachaca perfumed with passionfruit, and a separate shooter of blanc de blanc to keep the fizz from fizzling out.

But drinks are drinks, and what may be the real scene-stealer is Café Chelsea. It most certainly has been stealing thunder from such New York mainstays as Balthazar and Pastis, now dubbed the new “see-and-be-seen” destination from foodies in the know. But even if visibility is not your priority, the attentive service and tweaked French bistro classics created by Executive Chef Derek Boccagno will make it worth your while. Entrées (which we call appetizers) run $14-$23 and include such delicacies as a meaty, whole steamed artichoke big as a baby’s head and served with a lusciously garlicky aioli. The croquettes de chevre are a favorite of Dan Courtenay, the owner of the invincible Chelsea Guitars which remains nestled in between the hotel’s grand entrance and El Quijote. Tiny crusted orbs of creamy goat cheese are drizzled with honey and adorned with delicate purple thyme blossoms. Another favorite are the Ravioles du Dauphiné, a rarely seen specialty from the southeast of France, buttery and cheesy and delicious enough to make one wonder why Italians are always the go-to for pasta.

For what Americans dub “entrées” and the French more accurately call Plats Principaux, the menu is succinct but solid, centering on a backbone of staples whose preparations will fluctuate given the season and consequent product availability. Prices hover in the $30 range until meat is introduced, and then a more extravagant but worthy steak frites can be had for $42, and even more luxuriantly a bone-in Prime New York strip is an indulgence at $76.

The roast chicken could rival Jonathan Waxman’s, and a beautiful black bass is layered with scallop mousseline in a vibrant puddle of carrot nage. The kitchen uses various hard woods for cooking many of the dishes, the delivery of which can be seen intermittently on 22nd Street to be funneled through their underground delivery passageway. Currently that wood is doing justice to some excellent end-of-season haricots verts.

Desserts aren’t listed on the menu, but your waiter will advise you (and you should heed it) that there is a Soufflé au Chocolat available to finish your meal, but must be ordered in advance. It arrives deeply fragrant of rich chocolate, but like a dense fog, it’s texture is nearly weightless while its impact is profound. If chocolate is not your thing, a butterscotch sundae studded with chunks of moist cake is an equally satisfying option to end your meal.

For now, Café Chelsea completes the hotel’s dining portfolio, but partner Charles Seich says never rule out the possibility for something else. With El Quijote’s success added to the Café’s momentum and the Lobby Bar’s popularity, anything seems possible.... such as rumors of a rooftop spa to crown the premises. Considering the raucous burlesque parties that former penthouse tenant Norman Gosney used to throw up there in the early aughts, complete with an open air shower, it seems absolutely fitting. Stay tuned.