New Italian Bistro in Chelsea Opens after a $1.5M Overhaul

Bar Bonobo on Eighth Ave. could be just the replacement the neighborhood needs to replace the beloved Le Singe Vert, which closed a year ago. The new Italian bistro features glowing chandeliers of undulating glass imported from Italy, plush velvet cerulean banquettes and accents of warm terra cotta hues.

| 23 Mar 2024 | 01:12

When beloved Le Singe Vert closed about a year ago, unexpectedly and unfortunately, it left a little hole in the hearts of Chelseans. Lucky for us, a new monkey has opened up directly lateral to the shuttered bistro over on Eighth Avenue.

Bar Bonobo is a glossy new addition to what is becoming a very spiffed up stretch of the avenue that has been suffering since the pandemic (and perhaps prior). Bold, gold letters introduce it to the neighborhood above lofty, frosted glass doors. It is themed after a 70’s era Italian disco, with all the glitz and bella figura one might expect from such a concept, and a tantalizing menu of tipples to keep customers in precisely that zone.

The team behind it is a group of four co-owners of Irish heritage, Elaine Marlow of Cask Bar & Kitchen, Conor Duffin, Emma O’Neill and Ronan Conlon of Banc Café. Both those establishments are in midtown east, so they arrived upon Chelsea as an arguably cooler ‘hood, which Duffin envisions as “an up and coming scene.” And sceney it is; they’ve completely transformed what used to be a Bareburger into a sophisticated, inviting haven with glowing chandeliers of undulating glass imported from Italy, plush velvet cerulean banquettes and accents of warm terra cotta hues. Glassware is similarly considered, with classy, retro-looking ribbed vessels from Steelite.

The overhaul was administered by Amie Mercer and David Crolla of Affect Group to the tune of $1.5 million, creating a lavish but relaxed atmosphere, like the posh living room of those best Milanese friends you only wish you ever had.

Bar Bonobo is so new their website doesn’t give much information, but the landing page is a mesmerizing image of an Old Fashioned sloshing about hypnotically behind the font of their logo. Their signature drink, however, is the martini, of which they have many, conceived by Beverage Director Gelo Honrade. There’s a Really Wet one, an allium-forward gin concoction with charred scallions and dry vermouth, and fruitier versions like The Big Apple, a vodka martini with yuzu, Grand Marnier, lime and apple. All the cocktails are fabricated with juices fresh-squeezed in the kitchen, and many of the drinks are informed by “taking food elements and turning them into syrups” for inspiration, so nothing is cloying. You needn’t relegate yourself to martinis: there are a smattering of Modern Classics like the Boulevardier and the Cosmopolitan, a lovely list of exclusively Italian wines, a selection of beer and classic aperitivi and amari. And if you are pushing Dry January into March, there are some thoughtful Zero Proof options whipped up without a smidge of booze.

While cocktails are the point of Bar Bonobo (it is a bar, after all... not a restaurant per se), there is also a concise but thorough food menu. Some drink-friendly snacks like Spinach & Artichoke dip, pate de campagne with the requisite baguette and cornichons, and Crispy Duck Spring Rolls team up with cheffier plates like a vegan “Beetball Parmesan” with tomato sauce and whipped ricotta, lamb lollipops and a Char-Grilled Octopus served with crushed potatoes and olives. Bar Bonobo recently launched its brunch menu, which includes all the items from its regular service as well as some brunchier options like French toast, of course served with bananas (these ones are caramelized) and sluiced in butterscotch. There are also Cinnamon 5-Spice Donuts with chocolate sauce, and on the savory side, an imposing black truffle and brie burger, with eight ounces of prime beef and portobellos, fries on the side.

On weekdays it’s open from 4 p.m. to midnight; that’s as late as they can stay open due to a provisional liquor license from the SLA obtained in February, but they hope to expand those hours ’til 4 a.m. when they procure the permanent license, which in the best-case scenario could happen as early as next month. Worst case, not ’til July.

You might not realize the place is even open if you walk past; the entrance is subtly unassuming, intentionally so, giving it an air of exclusivity. As in, if you know you know (and now you do). Once inside, you’ll feel immediately welcomed by a host, usually one of the owners, just in front of the exquisitely curved bar, framed by attractive tamber cherrywood dowels. Negroni-hued chandeliers cast a warm, flattering glow upon an attractive crowd which is already pretty prolific. The evenings begin subdued and mellow, accompanied by a soundtrack of 70’s disco music, but things get livelier as the evening progresses. And presumably, it will pick up even more if and when the hours of operation are extended. The bar can accommodate 150 patrons at capacity, and the Chelsea Room (a private Event Space), holds up to 65.

Why Bonobo, you might ask? Elaine Marlow might be considered main owner of the bar, the instigator. And bonobos, as a species, are gynecocratic: women rule the roost. In fact, all the managers at her prior places of employment have been women. Interestingly enough, while the owners had originally conceived of a more jungle-themed, tiki bar-type concept (thus, the simian nomenclature), true to Honrade’s background and expertise in the industry, Jungle Bird (which is right up the block) sort of beat them to it. But the team having enamored themselves of the Chelsea location, decided to pivot to the Italian disco theme. The name, however, was too good to waste, though, so they stuck with it (Bonobo is the same in English and Italian, anyway), and you’ll find their signature Bonobo Martini features Monkey 47 gin. Because even if you miss Singe, it’s always good to have a little monkey business in the neighborhood.

BAR BONOBO, 184 Eighth Avenue; www.barbonobo.com